18th:
Calm seas, fog lifts - land in Godthul Bay, site of an old ship based whaling operation. Climb through the tussock grass and pesky fur seals, high up to a lake. Gentoo penguins colonies all over the hillside; we startle a herd of reindeer. A life and death struggle mesmerises everyone - penguins trying desperately to defend a chick from 2 skuas. They maul the chick 3 times, but can't fly off with the weight. Soon it's just the parent doing battle alone. The skuas win…..
A giant petrel lopes awkwardly downhill, trying to take off, but onlookers impede his flight path.
2 sooty browed albatross soar together in a courtship dance…
We sail south to Malki; first glimpse of bergy bits (that's the real name!) and then a small iceberg. Huge glaciers meet the sea, one sliding in and the other a sheer cliff.
Proved yet again that Gortex is really waterproof……another wet ride in the Zodiac, thumping over the swell. We crashed onto a beach, bits of melting ice amongst the seals….I 'm hooked!! Penguin enthusiasts were looking for Macaroni …..we saw lots of elephant and fur seals, and Benoit, the French Canadian and somewhat fey kayak master, leads us up the slopes following path of reindeer. He reminisces about his time with the Inuit…
19th:
Awesome day!!!! Apologies to David Attenborough. Not Richard who did the docos; this is so surreal - like living in a movie. I wander round trying to take it all in, composing my blog in my head….and catch myself mouthing the words….talking to oneself = crazy lady! Surprise, surprise…..
We start the day at St Andrews Bay; huge swells as we board the Zodiac and a few people have icy water fill their boots on the loading platform as they sink in the swell. Colonies of penguins everywhere, pesky fur seals dotted all over (one does not argue with the males), and huge 6000lb juvenile male elephant seals chest thump (like AFL players). practising to "dominate". Apparently once they reach the pinnacle, they only have one season to prove their worth protecting their harem before they run out of oomph and energy. Not surprised! Julio, a burly, bearded Chilean and the expedition boss, sits like Neptune on a rock, watching over proceedings.
The hut is a summer base for scientists - Frank Todd, (Mr Penguin - he has more time for them than humans; built the penguin enclosure at San Diego zoo).. spent a month here 20yrs ago. It's very basic, well stocked with supplies …and whisky.
Afternoon brings us down spectacular coast, more jagged peaks and glaciers framed in amazing cloud formations, absolute sunshine….. the Gap crew say they have been down here and not been able to do one landing! In Cooper Bay, we're treated to a Zodiac ride right amongst the rocks and seals and giant kelp…. a seal with fishing net around his neck… hundreds of Macaroni penguins squawking and preening on the beach and cliffs. There are no words left….
We finish the day cruising up a fiord and having dinner surrounded by sheer cliffs, glaciers and little bergy bits dotting the water. Get a chance to watch this from the bridge as the ship does a 180 and heads out the fiord. We say goodbye to incredible Sth Georgia in a beautiful fading icy light. Everything is becoming blue and black and white; No more green.
2 - 3 days of open sea ahead, down to the Weddell Sea in the Antarctic Peninsula......can't wait to put photos to this.
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