21st:
We sneak between two lows on the unexpectedly calm Scotia sea. - The weather is so good we may be able to do an unscheduled landing on Sth Orkneys, depending on beach conditions. Very few people ever come here….
Got to know lots of interesting people on board…some young, most older, retirees, wildlife junkies… Canadians, Israelis, Americans, Brits, several Hong Kongers, Aussies and the odd Kiwi. Lots of "birders" and camera buffs, forever toting massive lenses and tripods. Some have had several Polar trips. The Dr, Robert is from Christchurch - working hard at preventative medicine on the slippery rocks ashore 2 days ago, dreading a fractured hip…
Lots of talk of animal welfare and global warming …. the scientists on board say deal only with the facts, the data, and always check the funding behind the source…
Facts: seal and penguin populations are exploding, glaciers on Sth Georgia are retreating; ice is growing on the Ross sea side of Antarctic, diminishing on the western side of peninsula. The earth's tilt is increasing.
09.10 - site our first iceberg. Soon become quite blase - as we round the north of the Sth Orkey Isles they're everywhere, and they're awesome.
Shingle Bay - they haven't done a landing here for 8 years. Huge glaciers fall into the sea on one side, thousands of Adelie penguins line cliffs on other. And it STINKS… the iguano, pink from eating krill has been squirted all over the rocks, and the chicks are pink from living in it, waiting for parents to come back from the sea. In 10 days it will be deserted, the cycle will repeat next year…..
Hard to stay on deck to watch... biting wind is literally laden with ice and stings our face as we watch them unload the scout Zodiac. A light dusting of snow starts coating the hillside.
The landing does go ahead though many decline... we roll back and forth in big swells as the ships crew work hard manoeuvring her for 3 hours in the swell while Zodiacs are loaded and unloaded. The mudroom is awash with water when I get back so at least one swell must have crashed through. There are many aborted attempts to bring Zodiacs alongside, and a few so nearly fall into the drink… it's all about timing. A woman dislocates a shoulder. I bet Scobie a beer he couldn't keep us dry in the swells and I lost. He's a crafty old sailor…
Hard to stay on deck to watch... biting wind is literally laden with ice and stings our face as we watch them unload the scout Zodiac. A light dusting of snow starts coating the hillside.
The landing does go ahead though many decline... we roll back and forth in big swells as the ships crew work hard manoeuvring her for 3 hours in the swell while Zodiacs are loaded and unloaded. The mudroom is awash with water when I get back so at least one swell must have crashed through. There are many aborted attempts to bring Zodiacs alongside, and a few so nearly fall into the drink… it's all about timing. A woman dislocates a shoulder. I bet Scobie a beer he couldn't keep us dry in the swells and I lost. He's a crafty old sailor…
Dining room is just below the bridge and has panoramic windows…. massive tabular icebergs (new word for today - big square sheer blocks) float past as we eat - we all wonder where the other 7/8s are and thank God for sonar….a lot of empty seats tonight the big seas, but I just love it….not a hint of sea sickness.
mama can you please upload some photos? even just one? you're doing a wonderful job of describing it but i would love to see a pic, it sounds so wild! xx
ReplyDelete